operation crankola

someone’s gonna get shot today…

skeedlebop — Wed, 13 Aug 2008 19:33:10 +0000

The hicks were in full force last Saturday at the Owl Tor in Santa Maria. Trucks, ATVs, rifles, shotguns, Coleman tents, Coleman stoves, Coleman lounge chairs with beer holders, beer, and of course a whole lot of attitude. Walking to the Tor Elijah, Elhanan and I talked about our chances of catching a stray bullet. Hicks have been known to mistake climbers for squirrels, or worse, possums. As if this anxiety wasn’t enough, Elijah’s spotting of a large coiled rattlesnake along the trail marked the opening of Highway to Death (5.2 X) season. Elhanan seemed interested in nabbing the first ascent, but neither Elijah or I were willing to give him a belay so he opted to work on his snake charming techniques instead.

For the rest of us, it was sort of a mixed bag. Chris Bersbach made an appearance hoping to meet up with Andy (who bailed last minute due to banking issues…?) and had a hell of a first day at the Tor, topping Power of Eating (5.11d) with only a few falls. Elijah made some progress in his training to redpoint a record breaking 9 routes in one day at the Tor, spending most of his time dialing in The Natural (5.12c). My flailing on the bottom of Auto Magic (5.12a) didn’t prevent a redpoint on my first go of the day. This success motivated my first lap on Chips Ahoy (5.12d), an Owl Tor classic. Completion of all the moves granted access to a nice photo perch, where I preceded to get some good shots of Elijah on Chips. Oh, and Elijah and I drank a bottle of Kefir each. Mmm. Full album on Picassa below.

Owl Tor 8/9/08

Lovin the Green

skeedlebop — Tue, 05 Aug 2008 18:01:45 +0000

For some reason everyone has something bad to say about the Green Dome. Why all the hating? Yes, it’s hard to crank projects when it gets hot, the approach is a tad athletic and the rock can be a bit junky, but uh, name somewhere in Santa Barbara where at least two of these things don’t apply. The truth is, Green Dome is damn fun, and the schist is great once you get used to the cool pinches and secret slot crimps. And, there’s star worthy routes from 5.10 – 5.13 (including the three star Dancing Fingers 5.10d). This might make it the best moderate sport climbing crag in the county. Oh, and did I mention that it’s absoultly gorgeous back there…. See for yourself.

This is what happens when I forget to ask Micah if he’s writing at the same time. Anyways, I was going to post this:

Straight to the (Green) Dome

Marcela getting a very lady-like shake.

Micah getting some chalk the old fashioned way.

Hear I am wondering what those things on my feet are.

The ghetto.

Plan right and you won't have to hike out in the dark. But that wouldn't be very exciting, now would it?

We went to Green Dome Sunday afternoon – Micah, Bridget, Justin, Marcela and I. And Micah’s new Rebel XTI. Finally, a camera that almost does justice to the extra rad light we get in the evenings around Santa Barbara. It’s my favorite time to climb. It’s the kind of climbing that keeps me coming back despite the incessant flies, ticks, heinous approach and oppressive heat. One good evening lap makes it all worthwhile. Last Sunday was like that. Visiting, and sometimes revisiting, these local classics after work and on Sunday evenings is great. I mean, look at it…

up and back

mulligahn — Thu, 31 Jul 2008 17:51:51 +0000

me on Caveman, Santa Barbara, CA

Above and behind downtown Santa Barbara is the Caveman Area. Despite living in town for eight years I had never been there until Andy, Micah, Bridget, Marcela and I went after work Monday evening. The approach was a touch epic but well worth it for 2 burns on this gently overhanging face above a typical sandstone cave. Andy’s recent training on area classics was evident as he smoothly sent on his second go. After an initial reconnaissance burn on Caveman, Micah chose to spend his second go on the 5.10-something to the right. Bad idea. My second go on Caveman was a sunset redpoint, one of my more memorable, as the climbing here is pleasantly exposed on top a stunning Santa Barbara peak.

lazy Sunday

mulligahn — Thu, 31 Jul 2008 20:43:12 +0000

tradalicious™

Andy on 'The Nose'

As is more often than not the case, Sunday found us climbing close to town. Gibraltar. Not my favorite spot and this is not my favorite route. I will concede, however, that this is an area classic. Here, Andy is on The Nose.